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Southern charm and sea lions in Dunedin
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Take a weekend to explore Dunedin’s charm and see the sea lions at St Clair.
By Denise Stephens
Who doesn’t love a weekend away? Or maybe a longer trip if you’ve got the time. Dunedin is one of the best spots for a getaway, with its vibrant mix of culture, food, and outdoor adventures nestled in a charming heritage setting.
Explore Dunedin’s stunning Victorian buildings, beautiful reminders of its 19th-century heyday as New Zealand’s business centre, which you can easily get a taste of on a quick visit. Plan for even longer if you want to fully soak in the city's unique charm.
Otago Farmers Markets
The city’s most famous building is the railway station, an elaborate confection of stonework and turrets. It’s worth looking inside to see the ornate Royal Doulton tiles covering the floor and walls. The scene outside on a Saturday morning is more down-to-earth, with the Otago Farmers’ Market selling local produce such as vegetables, honey, and cheese. Pop by for breakfast and a bit of a wonder, there’s a coffee cart, pastries, and classic bacon butties.
A few minutes walk away in Queens Gardens, The Tart Tin bakes old-fashioned favourites. After looking at the lavish cabinet display of cinnamon scrolls, cheese scones, and caramel slabs, I chose a lamington in that day’s flavour, boysenberry, to go with my coffee. Highly recommended!
Walking tours through the history
There’s a lot of history to be discovered in Dunedin and one of the best ways of learning more about the past is on a walking tour, with several companies doing tours around the central city.
One of these, Darkest Dunedin, also does tours of the local cemeteries for those who like a story with a spooky edge. At the Southern Cemetery, which is Dunedin’s oldest, our guide Gregor recounted tragic tales and scandalous stories about early settlers.
At Toitū Otago Settlers Museum I learned the story of Dunedin from pre-European days to the present day. An amazing array of artefacts is on display, including gold-mining tools, the steam locomotive “Josephine”, and the first computer ever installed in Dunedin, their role in history explained on nearby information panels.
Love a walking holiday? Here are 5 for any fitness level
Where to for dinner?
You may want to make dinner with all the fresh local produce you bought at the market, but there are some excellent local restaurants too. Best Cafe has been frying fish and chips since 1932. For a nostalgic trip back in time, dine in at one of their retro formica tables.
For a special meal, book well in advance for Moiety, next door to Tart Tin in Queen’s Gardens. It’s renowned for gourmet fare made with local produce.
Several of Dunedin’s heritage buildings have been converted into boutique accommodation with more character than a standard hotel. I stayed at The Stables, which once housed a prominent local businessman’s string of race horses. Its 19th century origins were on show with exposed bricks and dark beams, while a comfortable bed and all mod cons ensured a good night’s sleep.
Coffee and street art trail
The renovated heritage warehouses and shipping company offices in the Vogel Street precinct are a great place to look for breakfast on Sunday morning. My favourite is Vanguard Specialty Coffee which feels light and airy with its large windows facing the street. Other good spots to try are Vogel Street Kitchen and Heritage Coffee, both of them having a darker, cosier ambiance.
Dunedin’s street art trail leads to giant murals by New Zealand and international artists in unexpected places. As you turn a corner in the Vogel Street Precinct, you may spot street art on a side wall, maybe a larger than life fish head, or a fantastical mechanical horse.
Shhh, sea lions snoozing
To discover Dunedin’s natural environment, take a quick bus trip from town to St Clair. Walk from here along the cliff to enjoy marvellous views over the ocean. A sign at the beginning of the track down to Lawyers Head Beach warns to watch out for sea lions, which come ashore to snooze on the sand for a few days or weeks. Although sightings aren’t guaranteed, if you spot one, it’s best to stay a respectful distance away.
Walking back along the beach to St Clair, you’ll see surfers riding the waves in all weathers. The beach is pleasant for swimming, either in the sea or in the heated salt water pool. St Clair has a few places for lunch along the beach front, such as the Esplanade, serving pizza with a view. After relaxing at the beach and breathing in the sea air, you’ll be ready for the trip back home.
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